Cartellate and Saint Anthony Abbot’s Porcelli

Cartellate are a traditional dessert of Apulian cuisine, particularly associated with the Christmas season, though they are also enjoyed on other festive occasions. This sweet has deep roots in rural tradition. Preparation begins with a thin sheet of dough, which is cut and rolled into small spiral rosettes—though the knotted “nocchetta” shape is also common.

The classic method of cooking is deep-frying in hot oil, which gives cartellate their distinctive golden, crispy texture, although they may also be baked. The finishing touch is to immerse the fried cartellate in warm honey or vincotto—a sweet reduction traditionally made from figs—and cinnamon, coating them completely and enriching them with a warm, enveloping sweetness. Other types of vincotto exist, made from grapes, percoche peaches, or quince, but the fig version remains the most traditional and prized.

In recent years, freshly fried cartellate have also found a place in aperitifs, paired with stracciatella cheese, cherry tomatoes, basil, and other creative combinations—an evolution that has extended their enjoyment throughout the year.

In Turi, during the Christmas period—especially on 17 January, the Feast of Saint Anthony Abbot—the same dough used for cartellate is shaped into percièdde de Sànde Anduène. These small dumpling-like pieces are formed using the inner surface of a cheese grater, then fried and soaked in vincotto and cinnamon.

The contrast between the crisp fried dough and the soft sweetness of honey or vincotto creates a perfect balance, making these desserts truly irresistible. Every Apulian family has its own version and variation of cartellate and percièdde, with slight differences in ingredients or methods, yet their essence remains unchanged: a sweet symbol of conviviality, tradition, hospitality, and abundance.